Kava or yaqona: Fiji's iconic ceremonial brew

Inexplicably, until now I've not blogged about kava (yaqona in Fijian), Fiji's iconic ceremonial brew. In pre-colonial times it was a drink of spiritual power reserved for chiefs and priests, and believed to aid communion with gods (see my post Bure, Fiji's divine house). Nowadays, every village cultivates yaqona, processes it and all adults drink it as a social beverage, often called grog. When we lived in suburban Suva, we heard rhythmic clanging daily in the late afternoon as our neighbours pounded the roots for their sundowners.

The author with racks of drying yaqona roots on Taveuni Island, Fiji

In towns, anyone can buy yaqona root bundles and ground powder at markets and roadside stands. If you're visiting a village, you'll be welcomed with a yaqona ceremony, at which it's courteous to present a gift of yaqona, preferably in a newspaper-wrapped bundle, but a packet of powder is fine, too. All resorts will also offer guests grog, with varying degrees of ceremony.

Gift-wrapped bundle of Yaqona/Kava roots

What is yaqona?

The Fijian term yaqona refers to all parts and products of a type of pepper plant, Piper methysticum. The drink is made by grating dried roots and mixing the powder with water, then straining through cloth (typically a tea towel). Not only do villagers cultivate the plant for their own use, it has also been an export crop for decades. Pharmaceutical companies in Europe make kava pills and capsules which are marketed as natural products to treat insomnia and stress. Grog's appearance is not appetising: it looks like muddy water. The taste is mild and earthy, like cooking water from vegetables. To me, it is neither very pleasant nor unpleasant. Let's say it's an acquired taste.

Yaqona's effects

Kava has a mild depressant and sedative effect. However, some Fijians who drink grog daily in large quantities develop an addiction and a scaly skin. Depending on the strength of the brew, grog produces tingling or numbness of the lips and tongue. You can trust that yaqona served at a village or resort ceremony is safe. You will probably enjoy a restful siesta or good night's sleep afterwards.

Here's a link to the public yaqona ceremony for Queen Elizabeth's first visit in 1953. I recommend you follow the royal example and accept a grog when you visit Fiji.

Yaqona in the Fiji Islands Mysteries

Here's an edited extract from Death Off Camera: Fiji Islands Mysteries 5. describing a formal yaqona ceremony.

 ... "Then six women solemnly tied garlands around the necks of Zak the headman, the pastor, Steve Duke, Mr and Mrs Carson, and to his surprise, Horseman. He breathed in the sweet scent of gardenia and frangipani. Glancing at Duke, he knelt to lay his present of yaqona roots beside the tanoa, the carved wooden mixing bowl. Duke followed suit and Zak clapped three times.

The pastor spoke. ‘Our chief accepts your most generous offering with humble thanks. May God protect you on your journey home.’ Zak first welcomed the foreign guests in Fiian, then switched to English after a few minutes.

‘We are most grateful to welcome Mr and Mrs Carson, parents of our beloved Champion contestant, Desire Lopez. We pray they will forgive us for not keeping their daughter safe on our land.’ He bowed his head and brought his hands together in three resounding hollow-palmed claps, echoed by those behind him.

Mr Carson leaned towards Horseman and whispered, ‘What should I do?’

Horseman whispered back. ‘Just one clap.’

Mr Karson clapped once, and all the Fijians smiled and nodded.

Next came the yaqona mixing. Nete and his helper carried a length of bamboo and a sinnet fibre bag to the half-full bowl. Muscles rippled beneath their oiled skin as one poured water from the bamboo tube and the other swirled the bag through the tanoa, wringing it with both hands then swirling again and again until the mixture was right. Nete, moving with military precision, scooped up a cup of the greyish brew and knelt before the chief. He bowed his head to the mat, and proffered the cup to Zak, his arms outstretched above his head. Zak clapped three times, took the cup and downed it amid approving shouts of ‘maca', empty.

When the servers were well into the second round, guests and hosts alike were more relaxed, breaking into small groups to indulge in quiet chat. Yaqona did that..."

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I look forward to hearing from you!

Bernadette

B.M. Allsopp